A day in Saint Malo—the gem of Brittany’s coastline
By Hannah Cameron
I visited Saint-Malo during my semester abroad in France and loved every minute of it.
In the early morning on the final day of August, I arrived; my face pressed to the bus window to catch a glimpse of the famous view. The sprawling green landscape of Brittany opened suddenly to the coastal town of Saint Malo and the vast ocean beyond. I heard my friends call out from the other side of the bus and turned to look out their window. There on the horizon loomed the towering ramparts of a once medieval city, encircled by soft light and morning mist as its sleepy inhabitants rose gradually for the Sunday ahead.
The bus dropped us at the foot of the medieval walls, where we stepped straight onto the cobbled streets, into the crisp morning air. Looking up at those ramparts, awe and excitement washed over me. I was ready to step inside and explore.
The history of Saint Malo is long and fascinating. Wandering through the streets it was easy to get a sense of that; stories practically ooze out of the cracks in the stone. It is exceptional to think that much of the town that stands today is a dedicated reconstruction, following the destruction of 60% of the town during WW2 bombings. The rebuild, which was committed to maintaining the town’s original design and aesthetics, speaks to the indominable spirit of Brittany and all those that have inhabited this famous coastal port.
A two-kilometre walking loop, atop the city walls, encircles the town. Upon arrival, my friends and I headed straight there.
From the fortifications the old town sprawled out beneath us, but it was the view out to the ocean that was breathtaking. The English Channel stretched out into the distance, Britain of course remained stubbornly beyond the horizon, but in the large bay, several rocky islets and naval forts dotted the choppy, green waters. It’s no wonder this area is called The Emerald Coast.
As the morning mist cleared and the ocean began to sparkle under the late summer sun, the vast panorama of the bay and its complex history rushed towards us with the waves. The maritime fortification of Saint-Malo began in the late 17th, making it a legendary defence port. Solid and imposing; it’s easy to imagine English and Dutch invaders being deterred from entering the harbour, easier still if you trek out to explore the islet forts, some of which are even accessible by foot when the tides are out.
Throughout history corsairs and privateers roamed the waters beyond Saint-Malo, bringing their riches back to a flourishing, independent town. The port was always bustling with merchants who brought goods from far and wide as well as those who shipped Breton products, such as local seafood and the region’s renowned textiles, across the world.
Our adventure continued as we headed into the heart of the walled city for lunch. A bubbly atmosphere greeted us as we passed lively boutiques and bustling cafes, nestled amongst quaint houses and medieval churches. Saint-Malo’s history is in fact rooted in the church, taking its name from a Welsh monk named Maclow who established a monastic settlement there in the 6th century.
Then, to finish off our day of excitement we headed to the beach and took a dip in the cold, cold Atlantic Ocean. Worth it!
While the North of France is not generally known for its beaches, Saint Malo does not disappoint. The ocean sparkled as we dipped amongst the waves—there is even an offshore diving board set up for adventurers to plunge from. The golden sand was warm beneath us as we sat and read. Kayaks and sailing boats parked along the beach practically beckoned us out to sea for adventure. Then, above it all, loomed the historic city walls, completing the postcard worthy scene.
As I sat on the sandy beach, in the shadow of the city walls, the fresh ocean water drying off my skin, ending the day surrounded by new friends; from Australia, the US, Norway, Taiwan, Chile, Portugal, and Ukraine; it occurred to me how many travellers, from all over the world, have been drawn to this incredible port over the centuries and how lucky I was to be in France, exploring it myself.
Is a day of adventure in Saint-Malo calling to you? France Travel Solutions can make that happen!
Learn more about our Jewels of the North Tour here.
Original photographs by Hannah Cameron
